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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. However, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners completely astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble shop securing such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary achievement.